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探索华沙表面下的内在活力

更新时间:2018-4-1 9:18:32 来源:千亿千亿国际娱乐官网 作者:佚名

The secrets hiding in Warsaw, the Paris of the east
探索华沙表面下的内在活力

Once known as ‘The Paris of the East’ for its Baroque beauty, Warsaw saw more than 85% of its buildings destroyed amid the ravages of World War II. Despite its past hardships, Poland’s capital city continues to rise from the ashes – and its once-famous elegance can still be found by those who look beyond the surface.

华沙(Warsaw)曾因其巴洛克(Baroque)美景被称为"东方巴黎",在第二次世界大战的蹂躏中,超过85%的建筑遭到破坏。波兰首都虽然有着苦难的过往,但它不断从灰烬中崛起——曾经闻名的优雅风格仍然能够被那些深入了解它的人发现。

“A wise man once told me: when you look around Warsaw, ask yourself: ‘Is that an ugly building, or a dirty building?’” said Nate Espino, a partner at PR agency Aldgate Strategy Group who first moved here from San Francisco 20 years ago. “That has transformed my perception, and in the past two to three years some of the grotty old buildings have been sandblasted and are now gleaming.”

"一位智者曾告诉我:当你环顾华沙时,问问自己:'那是一栋丑陋的建筑,还是一栋肮脏的建筑?'"阿尔德盖特集团(Aldgate Strategy Group)公关代理合伙人纳特·埃斯皮诺(Nate Espino)说。20年前他从旧金山(San Francisco)搬来这里。"这改变了我的看法,过去的两到三年中一些难看的老建筑经过喷砂处理,现在闪闪发光。"

For many Warsaw residents, the city’s true appeal doesn’t lie in exteriors at all, but in its energetic inner life. “When I was moving to Warsaw, I wasn’t sure how I would find myself in a new home,” said Karolina Lyzwa, an Intrepid Travel Urban Adventures tour leader who moved from Łódź in central Poland. “Everything became simple after a sunny, summer season when I spent a lot of time on my bike, observing the vibrant life from the little cafes, relaxing on the Wisla [Vistula] riverbank, and reading about both the harsh and flourishing times of this astonishing city.”

对许多华沙居民来说,这座城市真正的吸引力完全不在于其外表,而在于其充满活力的内在生活。"我搬来华沙时,并不确定在新的地方如何找到自我,"勇敢旅行都市历险(Intrepid Travel Urban Adventures)的领队卡罗利娜·雷兹瓦(Karolina Lyzwa)表示。她是从波兰中部的罗兹(Łódź)搬来的。"在一个阳光明媚的夏季,我花了很多时间,骑着自行车,从小咖啡馆观察充满活力的生活,在维斯瓦(Wisla)河畔休息,了解这个神奇城市的艰难和繁荣时代。"

Long-term residents agree that Warsaw is a city where a little exploring – and a lot of patience – pays off.

长期居民认为华沙是一座需要一些探索——以及很多耐心——才可以有所发现的城市。

Why do people love it?

为什么喜欢?

Poland’s capital is full of surprises in unexpected places. “I discovered a skiing station in the middle of the city, a tropical beach on the Vistula River and a deer freely living in the Łazienki Park,” said French-Russian Sasha Naslin, who moved here from Belgium three years ago and blogs at The Alternative Travel Guide. “I was lucky to see him only the once!”

波兰首都在意想不到的地方充满了惊喜。"我在市中心发现了一个滑雪站,在维斯瓦河上发现了一处热带沙滩,还在瓦津基公园(Łazienki Park)发现了一只自在生活的鹿,但我只见过一次,"法裔俄罗斯人萨莎·纳兰(Sasha Naslin)说。她三年前从比利时(Belgium)搬到这里,为另类旅游指南(The Alternative Travel Guide)撰写日志。

Split by the Vistula River, the city doesn’t have a specific city centre but rather two sides with differing personalities. “The west bank is full of glam, bustling with a lively nightlife scene, while the east bank has been rediscovered by artists, offering an authentic atmosphere with attractions off the beaten track,” Lyzwa said.

这座城市被维斯瓦河分成两边,没有确切的城市中心,相反,两边有着不同的人文特点。"西岸激情四射,夜生活很热闹,而东岸被艺术家们重新发现,用不同寻常的事物传达出一种真实的情调,"雷兹瓦说。

Naslin loves exploring the Bohemian Praga districts on the eastside riverbank, with its alternative bars, theatres and street art.

纳兰喜欢探索东侧河岸的波西米亚普拉加(Bohemian Praga)区,那里有可供选择的酒吧、剧院,还有街头艺术。

Residents especially appreciate the ‘human-sized’ city, which makes it manageable and approachable for newcomers. “Each [of the 18] districts has a local fresh food market, a park with plenty of activities in the summertime, local bars and places to discover new artists,” Lyzwa said.

居民们尤其赞赏这座人性化的城市,使得新来者也能做好安排,顺利到达目的地。"18个区中的每个区都有一个当地的新鲜食品市场;一个公园,夏季会有很多活动;还有当地特色的酒吧以及发现新艺术家的地方,"雷兹瓦说。

Warsaw pulses with an energy that comes from its constant state of reinvention and the physical rebuilding that is still ongoing in the city. “Kraków has bars that have been bars since the 15th Century, while Warsaw has seen whole nightlife districts come and go over the past decade,” Espino said. That dynamism mixed with a chip-on-the shoulder rivalry with neighbouring, more traditionally ‘tourist-friendly’ cities (Prague in particular) creates a unique energy that Espino compares to Beijing, “just on a manageable scale”.

华沙的活力源于其持续不断的改造状态以及城市中一直在进行的重建工作。"克拉科夫(Kraków)有15世纪以来一直营业的酒吧,而华沙在过去的十年间见证了整个夜生活区域的变化,"埃斯皮诺说。埃斯皮诺将这种活力和北京相比,"就在一种可控的范围内"。

What’s it like living there?

生活感觉

The first thing new residents need to learn is how get around on the chaotic streets. “Life is fast in Warsaw. You have to learn how to drive like nowhere else in Poland,” Lyzwa said. “You have to be dynamic, using all opportunities to squeeze in and making fast decisions while changing lanes.”

新居民需要学习的第一件事是如何在混乱的街道上绕行。"华沙的生活节奏很快。你必须学会和波兰的其他任何地方都不同的驾驶方法,"雷兹瓦说。"必须要灵活,利用一切机会挤进来,并在改变车道的同时快速做出决策。"

For those who want to skip the chaos, the relatively new Metro offers a respite. “Traffic sucks, so I stick to the Metro, which is still in its infancy but pretty good, and I avoid rush hour,” Espino said. Public transportation is quite affordable, costing 69% less than in London according to price-compare site Expatistan.com.

对想要避开混乱的人来说,相对较新的地铁能够提供喘口气的机会。"交通太差劲了,所以我坚持乘地铁,虽然它仍不成熟,但也很好,我会避开高峰期,"埃斯皮诺说。根据价格比较网站Expatistan.com的数据,公共交通费用相当实惠,比伦敦低69%。

In fact, residents rave about how much more affordable the city is compared to other European capitals, with housing costing around 60% less and food costing half what it would in London or Paris.

实际上,这座城市和其他欧洲首都相比,住房费用约为60%,食物成本是伦敦或巴黎的一半,居民对这里的物价很满意。

What else do I need to know?

生活需知

New expats should start their tenure here in spring or summer, according to locals. “The winters are grey and the days are short, both which are worse than the cold,” Espino said. Moving in the nicer, sunnier months can make that first adjustment a bit easier.

据当地人称,新来者应在春季或夏季来到这里,开始他们的生活。"冬季天空是灰色的,白天短,而且天气又冷,"埃斯皮诺说。在阳光明媚的月份搬过来可以让最初的调整容易一些。

Being happy in Warsaw depends on making local friends, and accessible online and offline social groups and activities facilitate these connections. “Join a group, a running club, rowing club, drinking club, whatever,” Espino advised. One place to start is a vodka tasting tour or the Pub Crawl Warsaw. With records showing the spirit originating in Poland as far back as the 8th Century, vodka has its own cultural importance here. Learning how to drink it correctly – with others, and straight up, not as part of a cocktail – can be the first step in fitting in with the locals.

能否在华沙快乐生活,取决于交当地的朋友,能够在线上线下与社交群体接触,参加促进这些联系的活动。"加入一个团体,跑步俱乐部、划船俱乐部、饮酒俱乐部,什么都行,"埃斯皮诺建议。开始的地方可以是伏特加品尝之旅,或者去华沙酒吧(Pub Crawl Warsaw)。有记录显示,这种烈酒早在8世纪就起源于波兰,因此在波兰,伏特加具有自己的文化重要性。学会正确饮用——和其他酒类搭配、不加冰块、不调成鸡尾酒——是融入当地居民的第一步。

Many people speak fluent English in Warsaw, so it’s easy to get around as a new Anglophone expat, but residents stress the importance of learning Polish to truly engage with Varsovians, the name for Warsaw locals.

在华沙,很多人能讲流利的英语,所以作为一个说英语的新来者来说,出行很简单。但是居民强调,学习波兰语对于真正融入Varsovians(指华沙当地人)很重要。

“Poles are different people in English than they are in Polish,” said Espino. “They are much more reserved in English, since it's a language they use for business, and can't be bothered to socialise in it.”

"波兰人讲英语和讲波兰语时是不同的,"埃斯皮诺说。"他们讲英语时更加少言寡语,因为这是他们商用的语言,不是社交语言。"

But making that investment is worth it to uncover the history and energy within Warsaw. “The spirit of the city hides in stories,” Lyzwa said. “So make friends with Varsovians and let them take you where they like to go.”

但是做这种(语言学习)投资是值得的,可以发现华沙内在的历史和能量。"城市精神藏在故事中,"雷兹瓦说。"所以,和华沙人交朋友吧,让他们带你去他们喜欢的地方。"

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